Cook in a Curry

Its the perfect start to a Monday morning when a friend in India rings to tell you she saw this http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/09/23/what-were-reading-275/

To say I’m elated is an understatement. But its lovely to see people enjoying what I write & wanting to visit the blog which I initially started out as a recipe diary where I could pen all the things I wanted to; without a word count! Thank you again New York Times for the mention!

This is the one dish that I absolutely love. Well you probably think I say that about a lot of the recipes I feature on my blog. But if your memories of eating Kheema Pav were anything like mine you would agree when I say it is THE quintessential dish in Indian cafes and street food stalls all across India.

A no frills cafe would be the best place to sample this delight and as a family we always did. Peeling, chipping paint off the walls, Portuguese inspired furniture with fans dotted along the ceiling that barely moved. The artwork, paintings and photos all resonated the 50’s & 60’s old school lifestyle in India. But we were only there for the food which was always honest, freshly cooked and ever so delicious. Scrolling down the mouth watering menu, debating what I should order so I don’t miss out on any of the dishes. Our order would include Mutton gravy, kebabs, cutlets, some offal dishes cooked in spiced gravies like bheja fry (brain fry), kaleji (liver) masala or gurda (kidney) curry. And of course kheema pav. Kheema or minced lamb slow cooked in spices garnished with fresh coriander was always served with what we called laadi pav. A generously helping of kheema mopped up with pav & squeeze of lemon eaten to my heart’s content. The melt in your mouth spiced kheema with a hint of zingy lemon cutting through the heat and richness of the dish with crispy red onion salad. That’s exactly how I remember it.

Pav or bread roll as it is known were always made fresh using a basic bread recipe. Though, there was something unique about the taste of these pavs; a taste that still lingers for me. My fondest memories have been buying fresh warm pav from bakeries in India smearing them with Amul butter which melted and soaked into the bread instantly. Scoffed in minutes or even better when we had ‘chai’ to dunk the bread in; Life was better with just the first bite.

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“Korma” the word itself sums up very different ideas of what the dish would taste and look like in peoples mind.

I’m a huge fan of Mughlai cooking and there are some brilliant restaurants dotted about across cities in India where you will find kebabs, niharis, rezalas and kheema dishes as part of their delectable mouth watering repertoire on the menu. All typical of mughlai cooking that are wonderful in their own right with layers of flavour, cooked to perfection and definitely worth a try. Though some of these are unheard of in UK restaurants; one thing that I know almost everyone would relate to is kormas. In India korma is associated with being a rich dinner party dish that is an amalgamation of ground spices; typically spices like chilli and turmeric powders would be part of the dish but more luxurious spices are also added to enhance flavour. The use of nutmeg, mace, cardamom and saffron are quite synonymous with kormas adding that delicate fragrance to the dish too; all laced in with yoghurt or ground pastes made from nuts or seed. Depending on regional influences (e.g. South Indians have their own unique take on cooking a korma or kurma as its known which is very delish!) coconut milk or grated coconut is used as well. Fresh green chillies and ground spices along with garam masala add the required heat to the dish.

I often recommend people try the korma I cook with a reassurance that there are more variations than just the mild variety commonly served. In UK a korma is usually something that is recommended for anyone who prefers a mild curry. It is usual white or pale in colour with little spicing and topped with raisins and almonds to bring out the richness of the dish.

My recipe below is based around my influence eating it whilst visiting traditional homes and restaurants serving some of the best ‘Nalli Korma’ in a rich gravy, slow cooked goat shanks with the meat falling off the bone all mopped up with soft roomali rotis and red onion salad. My memories of eating it are of pure pleasure and the best part is they come flooding back when I cook it. I have used lamb leg shanks which are readily available. You can opt for shoulder shanks too though goat shanks would be ideal as they are smaller in size.

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Pickling of food in Indian cooking has got to be one of the most common ways making them go a long way also in turn adding flavour to vegetables, meats and even seafood. I have stacks and stack of jars at home. Sweet mango pickle, savoury lime, chilli and mango variety, prawn balchao and my grandmother’s fav chilli pickle too. Most are homemade but even the shop bought variety are equally scrummy.

This recipe is one of the easiest ways of pickling and adding flavour to turmeric. If you have never seen or cooked with fresh turmeric root I strongly recommend trying to get hold of some. They are perfect in curries, raitas and vegetable dishes. Every bite is pungent with a mild after taste and very moreish. And this is one such way getting the most out of it and making it last a good few weeks.

P.S. Thank you to the lovely lady I bumped into at my Asian store for tips on how to use fresh turmeric. It’s always nice to see people so enthusiastic to share their cooking ideas.

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Over the past few years I have cooked this for a lot of clients and received rave reviews for it. It spurred me on to add it to my summer column of Food Quarter Magazine. And on the back of that have seen a lot of curry lovers email me requesting the recipe as they can’t get hold of a copy of the magazine. I am happy to oblige!

Think using basil in the marinade gives it a refreshingly distinct taste. As marinades go this one has spicy notes with the addition of coarse white pepper powder but with the perfect zingy and creamy flavours running through it too. I have used salmon but any firm fish would work well. Fish tikkas with fresh salad on grilled flat bread and a dollop of chutney or creamy dip would make for a perfect meal any day.

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I’m making the most of it and enjoying it while I can! That’s the sunshine I’m referring to:) Summer at the moment in England isn’t quite what it should be; though I always say nothing perks up the weekend like a bit of bbq food, beers and lots of delicious salads to accompany the meats and veg.

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I am hugely excited to be part of the Tilda Legendary Rice 40^th Anniversary celebration this Monday the 11^th of July 2011. I will be live on air on Sunrise Radio on 1458 AM which will be based for the day at the Tilda rice mills.

Listen in to my guest slot just after 11am cooking up delectable dishes from the Tilda Basmati range, sampling them and also talking through each dish along with the benefits of rice and cooking with basmati.

So get ready to tune in and join me, soak in the atmosphere, enjoy the live music & rice talk while sharing in the celebration!

Pouring rain on a glooming evening. It’s cold with a chill in the air. The charcoal fire burning by the hawker stalls is probably the best way to keep warm when you’re out & about. That’s what’s I used to do but my excuse was to stop off at the street stall to sample their spicy roasted ‘makai butta’ slathered with lime, chilli powder & salt. ‘Butta’ or spicy corn on the cob is sold by a lot of hawkers & street stalls in Mumbai. The corn is roasted straight over the charcoal which in my opinion makes the taste that much nicer giving it that charred flavour to the sweetness of the corn niblets. Paired with fresh lemon, chilli and salt its makes for a perfect balance of sweet, spicy and tangy flavours. In the recipe below I have used Kashmiri chilli powder which is very mild in flavour but high on colour. You could swap this for a mild paprika if you prefer.

Though my memories of eating this were in the monsoons of India I make it often now during summer too. I have cooked this on the hob a few times and it gives a similar taste to the charred corn. But there really is nothing like cooking it on the barbie; the scorching heat with a fired up barbecue, meats galore and spicy corn is so worth it.

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When all you can think of is food, fishing and feasting on a scrumptious menu then the journey doesn’t quite account for much however hectic, tiresome and long it might be. Stopping along the way for refreshing ‘Neera’ sweet toddy like (non alcoholic) drink with stalls dotted about through the motorway serving through the day. I was on my way to Sindhudurg District or ‘taluka’ as it’s known in the Marathi dialect. Located in the southern part of Maharashtra to sample the local Malwani cuisine and experience the way of life in the region. My excitement for a foodie fare is what kept me going on the drive from Goa to Malwan. Sandy beaches, lots of sun, good food and a tad bit of culture is what we had waiting for us.

Reaching our gorgeous stone built cottage at 5pm was good timing. We had decided what the plan was to be for each day. An early morning start at Tarkarli beach to see the nets and fishermen get out in their rustic wooden boats was on the agenda. A good catch would mean happy fisherman and make our experience that much more memorable. Though no one warned any of my friends of sea sickness; something I only too well experienced on a fishing trip a few years back.

Bustling and busy for that time of the morning, the anticipation of the experience and what the catch of the day would hold for us is all that I was thinking about. But through it all I wanted to soak in the experience, the smells of the sea and the view of the coast line from the jetty. It was a good few hours at sea but with the sun rising making the view ever so picturesque. The nets came in a few at a time with a flurry of fish. Was hard to identify all but I could definitely tell there was Pomfret and Surmai (King fish) for sure. A delight for the fisher folk!

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If ever there was a region in India that is a classic example of adapting to its surroundings, frugal cooking and focussing largely on local produce with seasonally offerings of meats and vegetables; Rajasthan undoubtedly comes to mind. Not only do rajasthani folk cook with what’s available; but even in extreme weather the meals and dishes are traditionally cooked to last several days. See back in the day most homes didn’t always have the luxury of refrigerating food. So cooking dishes with flavours that help preserve food for days like Achari Chicken; cooked in pickling spices or even Theplas; an Indian bread that can be eaten without reheating were ideal for most families. Deciding on what to include in this repertoire can be a mean feat to achieve though with the array of dishes available in regional rajasthani cooking; it’s a classic example of why Indian vegetarian meals are a delectable addition to the food in country and are some of the most delicious meals I have eaten. I have family relatives and friends who hail from the Marwari community (Jodhpur region of Rajasthan) which over the years has given me an amazing insight into their lifestyle and cooking which encompasses wholesome, fresh and diverse food.

Getting together with family and friends over a meal is very much part of the culture. Thalis serves with variety of curries, raita, salads and pickles. Freshly cooked bread served out whilst the meal progresses and small portions of desserts served out to accompany the meal. The experience reeks of royalty & grace just like the people from region.

A very popular addition to this north indian menu is Gatta ki Sabji. Bite size gram flour dumplings simmered in a tangy yoghurt curry. Bengal gram is widely use in Indian cooking and flour made from it is used for bread, curries and to thicken sauces as well.

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