Cook in a Curry

If tadka dal is anything to go by Bengali Cholar Dal takes it a notch higher. Traditionally eaten during celebrations and one of the first times I sampled some was at a Bengali puja (prayer). Most people would agree that Cholar Dal must be eaten with Luchis or Puris; deep fried puffed golden brown bread to scoop up this delicious thick dal.

Bengali people in general are hugely passionate about their food; something that’s evident not just in conversation but also at occasions, while they entertain, cook for family and friends. High on the list of favourites among the community include fish, meat and sweets. Also a host of vegetarian dishes. To me the vibrancy of the culture, cities, street stalls and markets go hand in hand with the food from the region.

Some of my favourite dishes include Maach Bhaja, Macher chop, Jhol, Bengali Shukto, Chingri Malai and Bhapa Ilish to name a few. When it comes to desserts and sweet meats there is a delectable variety; Sandesh, Rasogollas, Payesh and Bhapa Doi are a must try. Earlier this year I had the pleasure of sampling some amazing home cooked Bengali food. An invitation for a meal to a Bengali household or wedding is something I would never turn down!

A bowl of warm Cholar or Chana Dal is the perfect combination of spice, sweet and creamy goodness. Made with a base of Bengal gram/ Chana dal; the addition of coconut and raisins lifts the flavours in this lentil dish. Grinding the spices and adding them at the end lends the warmth to the dish from the cardamom and cinnamon. I have used pungent mustard oil for that addition of flavour but even vegetable oil works well.

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Indian Chinese; the one thing that I know a lot people in India just can’t get enough of including yours truly. From hakka noodles, fried rice, chicken chow mein, chop suey and chilli chicken. And the list goes on. With Chinese techniques tailor made for the Indian taste this unique take on a ‘desi’ version of the cuisine might not be something you’ll find in China but it’s been scoffed down by Indians as long as I can remember. Posh Indian restaurants to night street markets all serving some of the scrummiest dishes on offer, reasonable priced, always delicious and very satisfying.

One of the most legendary and well known places for this delectable cuisine was China Garden in Mumbai. My personal favourites have also included Mainland China (with quite a few branches dotted about) and Kamling (where I frequented when I was younger)

The menu rarely changes in Indian Chinese with signature dishes that have been cooked for generations but that’s the beauty of it; the key is a good dose of garlic, chilli and ginger. With a good measure of soy for the salty balance, sugar and also corn flour used as a binder to thicken gravies and sauces. The flavours are robust and full on so once you’ve tried it I can guarantee you’ll be hooked!

I’m hosting a cookery demo at Cinnamon Kitchen this week and apart from showcasing one of the prime parts of Indian cuisine I was also keen to compliment the ethos of what was on offer at Cinnamon Kitchen (from the Cinnamon Club team) which is renowned for its take on modern Indian cooking.

Chilli Paneer Fry is the recipe I cooked up at my cookery demo and one that works beautifully even with moist chicken morsels as well. It has the perfect balance of spice, sweet and tart from the chilli garlic sauce, moistness from the paneer with peppers and onions providing that crunch. Served just with some steamed rice. I have made it with a thick sauce that coats the paneer pieces all over but it’s perfect even just tossed in the sauce & served as canapés.

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Pickling of food in Indian cooking has got to be one of the most common ways making them go a long way also in turn adding flavour to vegetables, meats and even seafood. I have stacks and stack of jars at home. Sweet mango pickle, savoury lime, chilli and mango variety, prawn balchao and my grandmother’s fav chilli pickle too. Most are homemade but even the shop bought variety are equally scrummy.

This recipe is one of the easiest ways of pickling and adding flavour to turmeric. If you have never seen or cooked with fresh turmeric root I strongly recommend trying to get hold of some. They are perfect in curries, raitas and vegetable dishes. Every bite is pungent with a mild after taste and very moreish. And this is one such way getting the most out of it and making it last a good few weeks.

P.S. Thank you to the lovely lady I bumped into at my Asian store for tips on how to use fresh turmeric. It’s always nice to see people so enthusiastic to share their cooking ideas.

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If ever there was a region in India that is a classic example of adapting to its surroundings, frugal cooking and focussing largely on local produce with seasonally offerings of meats and vegetables; Rajasthan undoubtedly comes to mind. Not only do rajasthani folk cook with what’s available; but even in extreme weather the meals and dishes are traditionally cooked to last several days. See back in the day most homes didn’t always have the luxury of refrigerating food. So cooking dishes with flavours that help preserve food for days like Achari Chicken; cooked in pickling spices or even Theplas; an Indian bread that can be eaten without reheating were ideal for most families. Deciding on what to include in this repertoire can be a mean feat to achieve though with the array of dishes available in regional rajasthani cooking; it’s a classic example of why Indian vegetarian meals are a delectable addition to the food in country and are some of the most delicious meals I have eaten. I have family relatives and friends who hail from the Marwari community (Jodhpur region of Rajasthan) which over the years has given me an amazing insight into their lifestyle and cooking which encompasses wholesome, fresh and diverse food.

Getting together with family and friends over a meal is very much part of the culture. Thalis serves with variety of curries, raita, salads and pickles. Freshly cooked bread served out whilst the meal progresses and small portions of desserts served out to accompany the meal. The experience reeks of royalty & grace just like the people from region.

A very popular addition to this north indian menu is Gatta ki Sabji. Bite size gram flour dumplings simmered in a tangy yoghurt curry. Bengal gram is widely use in Indian cooking and flour made from it is used for bread, curries and to thicken sauces as well.

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I love the smells from my kitchen at the moment; smoky earthy dried whole red chillies that I just fried off in oil. Infusing the chilli heat in the oil; these deep red variety are glistening in the frying pan and filling my home with the roasted aroma.

If you have been reading my post for a while you’d know I love a good hearty curry. Though to my mind an Indian meal made from scratch does not always translate to a lengthy cooking process. Spiced Indian green beans are just that; bright green beans gleaming in the flavoured oils coated in mustard seeds & chillies but still making them the star of the dish rather than a supporting act to one. A dish with very few ingredients to wake up your taste buds. Served warm with a sprinkling of coriander, lime & sea salt I love eating it with some flaky buttery paratha & plain yoghurt or as my mum would serve it with a substantial helping of yoghurt rice.  

Curry leaves, dried red chillies and mustard seeds are all synonymous with Maharashtra, Goa and of course southern Indian cooking. And used generously in most of our traditional home cooked menus. The dried red chillies impart a mild heat but a very distinct flavour. Though if you prefer you can use fresh chillies but make sure to vary quantities based on how hot you like your dish. The recipe also includes a tsp of coriander powder which I feel enhances and blends together the taste of the over all dish.

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I always strive to cook a meal that is wholesome, delicious and brings out the best flavours in the ingredients. However I’m willing to accept that anything that assists you in making your daily cooking experience a tad bit easier is never a bad thing. When most people think of a ready paste they equate it to the word “instant”. Whereas using ready ingredients as part of your meal to speed up the cooking process does not make it in anyway ‘less authentic’.

Though I am a Pathaks paste virgin – there I’ve said it! I guess this is hugely down to the fact that I grew up as part of a generation in India where there weren’t any posh supermarkets, ready meals or takeaways. But that didn’t steer my mother from giving us freshly made home cooked meals adapting to our surroundings and making the best of all the seasonal vegetables & meats that were in abundance in local markets. An inherent quality that I carry forward with me even today.

With a long standing reputation in the food industry in the UK; the Pathaks brand has evolved and come into its own. Now a day’s using a paste as part of a meal would seem like a quick option especially for those young professionals or busy working families that don’t always have the time to make up the base from scratch. So when the Pathaks team got in touch and asked if I’d like to sample some of their products and work on a recipe using a paste I wanted to make sure it complimented the ingredients in the final dish but also made for a delicious meal that would be part of my repertoire.

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I left home at 7.15am promptly making my way straight to college. We would all meet in the college cark park and then walk over to the local south indian coffee house.

Yes. That was my ‘everyday’ ritual. No college for me at 19 but food was most definitely on the agenda. I guess my friends and me skipped classes because breakfast on a frosty morning sounded much more enticing while having a warm cup of tea and a gossip. The bustling coffee house was always filled with students and even office workers scoffing away before they made their way to work.

Dosas, steaming idlis, hot sambar and of course my all time fav was the tomato uttapam. These circular rice flour based beauties were on the menu with a variety of toppings to choose from. Onion, chillies, tomato and even cheese was on offer. I always went for the tomato variety served with sambar (south indian lentils) and coconut chutney. Crisp around the edges and moist and soft when I tucked in. Dunking each bite in the sambar and the chutney; it was bursting with flavours. Cumin, tomatoes, the soft pancake like texture with a spice kick from the sambar & coconuty chutney.

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One thing I know for sure after cooking, teaching and writing about food is that no matter how lavish a dish is or even the list of ingredients nothing speaks volumes like simple home cooked food. Even when cooking as a private chef most people are taken by the dishes that are simple to cook, easy to follow and taste ever so delicious. Needless to say that’s what usually works for me too and easy to rustle up after a busy day.

Most people reading this might wonder why I decided to blog this recipe. But I think for the sheer simplicity of it. Dal is such a staple in Indian food and one that is eaten almost every day as part of a meal in homes all across India. I cook it regularly at home and even for work. But rather than making it far too complicated I wanted to stick to basic ingredients and almost in a way let them speak for themselves. Though its such a versatile dish that an addition of chopped spinach or fenugreek leaves add nutritional value making it a meal in itself. The pleasure is in a spoonful of dal that has flavour, taste and is hearty. Or like I enjoy eating, taking a small piece of chapatti dunked in the dal to scoop up the lentils.

The recipe features moong dal the hulled & split variety which by far is a personal favourite. But feel free to swap it for toor or masoor/ red dal variety if those are more readily available. Also one other thing; I love using (tons of!!) garlic as you can see in the photos but I have reduced the amount in the list of ingredients to suit everyone’s taste. The consistency of dal is another thing that with a lot of people is a personal preference. But most people prefer a thick dal that has substance. I can’t think of a better meal than hot steaming rice, with dal ladled over and a serving of some savoury pickle.

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I have been meaning to get another perspective on Indian cooking for a while now but more importantly feature the same on my blog. And to be honest I couldn’t be more delighted to have Kavey write a guest post for Cook in a Curry. Her blog Kavey Eats has everything you’d want to know about events, restuarants/book reviews, cooking classes and recipes. Make sure to check her blog for my recipe of Green Coconut Prawn Curry. Hope you enjoy her post below & the recipe. Give it a go; its absolutely delicious!

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Cooking Paneer Malai with Kavey

You know how people sometimes talk about second generation immigrants as slightly lost souls – neither entirely comfortable in the land from whence their parents came nor completely integrated into the land of their birth?

Well, that’s not me.

I was born in London in the early seventies to two doctors who emigrated from India a few years before I was born. My sister came along 3 years (and five minutes) later. Throughout our childhood, we were brought up to have a strong connection to our relatives in India – indeed we visited them every few years, which we loved. But we were also brought up as British kids, free to take onboard our local culture, without the stricter cultural and behavioural strictures that many other second generation children were, in my admittedly subjective opinion, shackled with.

That applied to food too – mum regularly cooked Indian food but she also taught herself Italian, French, Chinese and, of course, British dishes from cookery books and by trial and error. We probably had Indian food once or twice a week, if that. And we travelled a lot too, in our holidays, to wonderfully exotic places and mum would often bring home a recipe or two such as peanut soup from South America, something she still makes today.

What all this boils down to is that, whilst we’d often help mum in the kitchen, we never really learned to cook Indian food in any meaningful way –  we didn’t pick up the techniques, the instinctive use of spices and wide repertoire of dishes that we might have resulted from a more traditional upbringing.

(Of course, I think my parents got it absolutely right – I feel a pride in my extra cultural heritage, I am very happy in my brown skin, I will always cherish my links with India. But I am first and foremost British).

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My fondness for all things street food continues! Frankly I think it’s not something I’ll ever let go. Like a lot of people; the fact that I only get a few chances to eat the real thing in India; the next best option is to cook it for family & friends introducing everyone to the flavours you reminisce about. And sharing the experience of how delicious a dish can be when you step outside the box.
Bhel puri is one such street food dish that is available everywhere you go in Mumbai/ Bombay. Every street corner, outside colleges, at Indian fast food restaurants you’ll find this ‘signature’ dish and it does help that it’s an all time favourite. Like a lot of dishes in India a few regions have their own variety of Bhel. The east of India has a similar version known as ‘Jhal Muri’.

What makes this dish so special is a mix of ingredients lending something different in every spoonful. Crispy puffed rice & puris with crunchy red onions, soft potato, tangy raw mango, sweet and sour tamarind chutney & a hint of spice with the minty flavour of green chutney. Gorgeous!  
I have to say THIS Bhel puri is as close as you can get to the Bombay Bhel! Once I made the dish I really couldn’t contain my excitement of sampling it and also realising how close I was to the real thing (a compliment from an Indian friend who popped over to sample some chaat). It’s a dish that’s easy to assemble once you have done all the prep work. But to get the most out of it Bhel puri must be eaten straight away for the crispy crunchy flavours. Once all the chutneys get soaked into the puffed rice, potatoes, onions they tend to get soggy if left any longer. Though saying that it still wouldn’t stop me from eating it!

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