Cook in a Curry

Konkani cuisine is very much part of the western region of India. A lot of my own family food influences have been based on this cuisine and the variety it offers. This is one such recipe that is very much part of the community in India. Raw mango or ‘Kairi’ as it’s known locally isn’t just used for pickles but make for a moreish gravy dish too. My mother is renowned for her homemade mango pickle which she makes using raw mangoes. But nothing makes a curry taste better than steeping chunks of raw mango in the gravy lending a sour tang to the dish. My fondest memories include a stack of raw mangoes peeled & chopped in our home. The smell wafting through the house was quite distinct; making it hard to resist. Even having a few bites of it raw can be very addictive.

What makes this dish unique is of course the use of raw mango but also that coconut milk is actually optional. It’s such a cliché that every Indian coastal seafood dish must include coconut milk but to be honest there are a lot that don’t & still taste gorgeous. For a slight creamy consistency I have added a few tablespoons. I know it isn’t something my mother would consider necessary.

The flavours are a combination for sweet, sour, spicy and moist succulent prawns soaking up the spiced gravy. A firm family favourite and also something I cooked for a few locals on my travels across Malwan last year too. Needless to say it’s went down a treat though they do like their food a lot hotter than I do! Adjust the heat in the curry as per your preference so a teaspoon of kashmiri chilli powder is good but you can add a touch more if you want to up the heat a tad bit. Also I always stock up on coconut powder (widely available in stores) which makes it easier to measure out the amount of coconut milk required.

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I must admit I’m really not much of a fashion buff! And food is definitely what I do best. Plus a guest post isn’t something I tend to write often but when posed with a request from Priyanka Gill (fashion journalist) to write a piece for her fashion blog eStylista featuring one of my recipes I simply couldn’t resist! Apart from fashion she also writes about restaurant reviews (I never miss reading them!) books & films. So if this gorgeous prawns curry entices you then heard over to eStylista right away for the recipe!

Over the past few years I have cooked this for a lot of clients and received rave reviews for it. It spurred me on to add it to my summer column of Food Quarter Magazine. And on the back of that have seen a lot of curry lovers email me requesting the recipe as they can’t get hold of a copy of the magazine. I am happy to oblige!

Think using basil in the marinade gives it a refreshingly distinct taste. As marinades go this one has spicy notes with the addition of coarse white pepper powder but with the perfect zingy and creamy flavours running through it too. I have used salmon but any firm fish would work well. Fish tikkas with fresh salad on grilled flat bread and a dollop of chutney or creamy dip would make for a perfect meal any day.

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It’s a special occasion and we had guests over for dinner. Mum always wanted everything pristine perfect and food undoubtedly topped that list. The house was sparkling clean, fresh flowers in the sitting room with music in the background, all her best china and shiny cutlery was laid out on the table (mind you we NEVER got to use it unless we had guests!). The food warmer was preheated with a few dishes that she had prepped for. An array of curries, boondi raita, fresh salad (or ‘salaaad’ as they called it!) and Ras malai chilled in the fridge to finish off an enchanting evening. But starters with drinks always started off the evening on a high. Drinks and kebabs have a love affair that I know every Indian would vouch for. With heated debates on politics, films or religion; the one thing that all guest unanimously gushed about was how delicious each starter was as an accompaniment to the drinks.

‘Hari Machhi kebab’ or Fish kebabs made with a green dry marinade were a family favourite. The fish mixed in with the marinade culminated in a melt in your mouth kebab. While mum was still frying them off I tuck into this crispy edged fish kebab; still piping hot and moist in the middle with a hint of ginger & spices. Dunking each morsel in a generous portion of tangy chutney. I was always the first in the kitchen to ‘sample’ the kebabs before the guests arrived and sneaking back to the kitchen for more while my parents weren’t around. Cooking them now takes me back to the aromas, sizzles & splutters when mum would make them in her kitchen. And nevertheless keeps me coming back for more.

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My trip to a fish monger now a days fills me with excitement, joy, anticipation and this unusual burst of energy which stems back with memories from my childhood that always come flooding back in an instant. My family lived in Mumbai; the coastal region of Maharashtra where seafood was always in abundance, with fishmongers knocking on our door often to sell the fresh catch of the day. Maharashtrians do eat Chicken and mutton but based on the way the region is laid out, a fully fledged meat based diet is consumed within the inner regions where supply of seafood can be scarce.

As a young girl accompanying my mother to the meat and fish market was something I would look forward to, keen to see what fresh produce was up for grabs. This really might not be something everyone enjoys but for me it was unique and special. The market had the distinct ‘fishy’ smell to it as you walked up to the entrance. The rustic colonial style doors leading the way to massive halls with old fashioned bronzed fans dotted about which kept the place slightly cooler and almost gave it that retro feel. We always made sure to carry our own shopping baskets to the stalls as most of the fish bought was wrapped by vendors in newspaper.

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I have lost count of the number of times I have cooked, eaten and recommended this dish. My mother used to make Patra ni Machhi when I was young and having eaten it at parsi celebrations made it ever so special. The flavours are tangy, spicy, coconutty and work a treat when put together with fish. Traditionally this dish is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed but I have cooked it in a conventional oven wrapped in foil smeared with the paste; sealed to retain its juices.

I have used whole pomfret rather than fillets; a flat white fish that is most commonly cooked with in the west of India. You can swap this for good quality white fish fillets; cod or sea bass would be ideal.

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