Cook in a Curry

I was in Goa earlier this year eating, drinking, cooking and basking in the sunny beachy glory which always brings back a lot of memories for me. It’s a city I have been visiting since I was 15yrs of age. One thing that till date I’m awestruck by is not just the abundance of fresh seafood that is available in the region but also how unique in flavour each goan dish is and the spicing that goes into it. Permutations with which curries are cooked and served as dry to wet cooking styles. Goan Brahmins and Goan Christians have their own individual take on the food and cooking as well. Coming from a Maharashtrian community myself; our family influences have always been fairly similar to the coastal feast in Goa. Konkan & Marathi (part of the western coast of India) food is what I have grown up eating and also where some of my favourite dishes stem from. People tend to associate Goa with coastal cooking but there are a lot of elements including meats and even a diverse vegetarian fare that are a popular part of the culture.

Xacuti can be made even with prawns, crabs or simply as a vegetarian option. The ingredients that are key for this dish are the warmth and aniseedy flavours from nutmeg and star anise. Chillies in this recipe are a vibrant red; as always I tend to opt for Kashmiri chillies which give that beautiful red tinge to the resulting curry. For that added heat in the gravy a dose of black peppercorns are a must. You can swap tamarind paste for lemon juice if you prefer.

Goa encompasses Portuguese dishes yet keeping true to its local tropical notes and flavours. My fondest food memories always include eating thick Xacuti gravy with moist chicken pieces; with the spicy curry clinging onto little pieces of pav/ bread at quaint little busy Goan restaurants and homes.

Eating this dish today takes me back every time to the scenic views of Goa, busy markets bustling all through the day and the effervescent vibes from the Goan people; now all I need is that gorgeous beachy backdrop!

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When I mention the use of pomegranate in Indian food it takes a lot of people by surprise. For some it’s almost unimaginable to think of it as a predominant ingredient in Indian curries as opposed to just a garnish of sorts. Pomegranate or anardana as its known; is quite commonly used in a lot of North Indian cooking. From curries, breads, raitas and tikkas the seeds are used fresh which are readily available in India; or dehydrated and sold dry. Dehydrated pomegranate seeds lend that required sweet & sour flavour in curries or chutneys. A lot of recipes also call for pomegranate powder or even juice.  It’s the perfect souring agent lending that tangy slant to a dish.

The menu on one of my classes recently featured this gorgeous ingredient as part of a chicken curry with chillies and garlic. Not surprisingly it went down an absolute treat. I remember visiting Mughlai/ Punjabi restaurants in India with my family and scrolling through the menu decidedly knowing what I was to order. For me the all time favourites were Reshmi Tikka (made with cream and ground nuts) also Kandhari Murgh; moist succulent chicken pieces coated in a thick marinade. Each bite was a perfect mix of heat from the chilli, tangy flavours from the pomegranate and warmth from fresh ginger and garlic. With a sprinkling of chaat masala for that added spice and tartness this dish was delicious dunking each bite in pudine ki (mint) chutney eaten with crispy onion rings.

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When all you can think of is food, fishing and feasting on a scrumptious menu then the journey doesn’t quite account for much however hectic, tiresome and long it might be. Stopping along the way for refreshing ‘Neera’ sweet toddy like (non alcoholic) drink with stalls dotted about through the motorway serving through the day. I was on my way to Sindhudurg District or ‘taluka’ as it’s known in the Marathi dialect. Located in the southern part of Maharashtra to sample the local Malwani cuisine and experience the way of life in the region. My excitement for a foodie fare is what kept me going on the drive from Goa to Malwan. Sandy beaches, lots of sun, good food and a tad bit of culture is what we had waiting for us.

Reaching our gorgeous stone built cottage at 5pm was good timing. We had decided what the plan was to be for each day. An early morning start at Tarkarli beach to see the nets and fishermen get out in their rustic wooden boats was on the agenda. A good catch would mean happy fisherman and make our experience that much more memorable. Though no one warned any of my friends of sea sickness; something I only too well experienced on a fishing trip a few years back.

Bustling and busy for that time of the morning, the anticipation of the experience and what the catch of the day would hold for us is all that I was thinking about. But through it all I wanted to soak in the experience, the smells of the sea and the view of the coast line from the jetty. It was a good few hours at sea but with the sun rising making the view ever so picturesque. The nets came in a few at a time with a flurry of fish. Was hard to identify all but I could definitely tell there was Pomfret and Surmai (King fish) for sure. A delight for the fisher folk!

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I have often spoken about eating Indian spiced broths & soups on my radio slot. Stew is such a big part of Indian culture regionally; and something I have grown up eating. Though it’s not quite often you’ll be seen slurping down a bowl in your local Indian.

With Christmas in mind as well this is an easy to rustle up one pot dish and perfect in this weather. You can even swap the chicken for leftover turkey. I can’t think of anything better than coming home to bowl of chicken stew. With each spoonful for me comes through the warmth and comfort of good old home cooking.

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Having a flair for all things regional, south indian food is really no exception. I love the region and more importantly the food on offer. Food in the Malabar coast is synonymous with all things fresh, heart warming and distinct in taste. As a community, southern india is vibrant and varied made up of Hindus, Muslims and Christians. Each of these form a part of the keralan way/ malayali way of cooking; which might I add having sampled the food a fair few times, is delicious and unique.

The key notes in most south indian recipes definitely include some of our favourites too – coconut milk, rice based dishes, curry leaves, bananas, peppercorns and mustard seeds.

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I recently mentioned on my radio slot at BBC Newcastle and also tweeted about it on Twitter that I recently acquired a beautiful age old cookbook. Which I’m chuffed to bits about. It’s the perfect hand me down; one that I’m not just honoured to acquire but excited to continue cooking from. Recipes from four generations of various families in the 50’s and 60’s in India – from an era that has a mystery and fascination for me which is hard to explain. It’s a phase that reminds me dearly of my grandmother someone I wish I was able to spend more time with. The recipes in this cookbook vary from region to region so there is a lot to choose from. Parsi recipes in my mind are a part of a community which has had strong influences on me. To cook up meals with enthusiasm, sharing and revelling in the experience (of eating too!) is very much part of the culture.

Visiting Parsi family & friends when we were younger was always a treat and not just because they are so friendly and welcoming but the food was hearty, delicious and the flavours were just so unique that it encompassed the perfect meal you’d ever wish for. Every dish in the Parsee repertoire is unique and has its own individual flavours. Some of my favourite parsi dishes are; Salli Boti a meat based dish that cooked in spices and topped with slivers of fried crispy potato, also the quintessential Dhansak a lentil & meat based dish cooked with vegetables and served with a brown dhansak rice, it’s absolutely delicious and a must try if you ever visit a parsi home or a local restaurant.

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Chicken Shawarma

A whiff of cinnamon, cardamom, clove & nutmeg is in the air at the moment. Spices which are synonymous with Middle Eastern cooking. I can’t get enough of the food in that region, from the lamb, chicken, hummus and even falafels. I had been frequenting the gulf even as a young girl and some of the fondest memories every time I visited were eating at little markets and stalls; the food was rustic, full of flavour and comforting. In the winters on a cold day standing out close to the stall, I could not have asked for more than to eat some of the freshly baked hot Arabic bread seasoned with Zaatar and then bite into a Shawarma roll, all washed down with a glass of warm apple tea.

Last year we visited Dubai after a really long time, and for me it was like having all the various varieties of my favourite food under one roof! Which I think is what Dubai does offer. I came back loaded not just with memories of good eats but recipes and even an Arabic cook book. I have over the last few months tried a few recipes from the book but I think the only thing beckoning my attention all along was the recipe for a Chicken Shawarma. I decided to cook it this week.

The recipe itself has various components which compliment each other. The tahini which I think is a must and adds hugely to the flavour of the Shawarma. A lot places also serve it with a garlic sauce but with the tahini having its share of garlic I thought it worked well just on its own.

I used chicken breast and sliced them as thinly as I could, marinating it in olive oil, nutmeg, clove, cinnamon and cardamom. I did freshly grind the nutmeg, clove, cardamom and cinnamon powders which does make a difference. All wrapped in Khaboos which is like the traditional roti as that’s what they usually serve it in but pitta bread works just as well. Apart from the recipe for the Shawarma, I tweaked about a tad bit with the tahini. I made it less garlicky & used half the amount of the tahini paste along with yoghurt to make it a bit runny.

The result was a moist and succulent Shawarma roll with chicken, the sauce offering that hint of garlic and a creamy texture, pickled gherkins which gave it a tangy flavour topped with some fresh salad. Taking my first bite into the roll was like being back at the market stalls for a visit.

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A very synonymous North Indian curry and I have to say its one of my favourites. I cook this regularly and still cant get enough of it. The preparation is typically like any Indian curry but with ingredients that pack a punch and veryauthentic in flavour and taste. This dish has been made in the north, particularly places like Rajasthan for a long time. As the weather in the north of India is quite warm, curries such as this using pickling spices, enhance the flavour whilst helping to preserve the food for longer. Mustard oil in this dish makes the chicken rich and moist but even vegetable or sunflower oil can be used as an alternative.

The yoghurt makes the gravy thick which helps coat all the chicken pieces evenly. Tailor the heat your requirement by using a little less of the whole red chillies and the chilli powder. Like any other meat dish, if this is made a little in advance the taste develops and is much nicer. But I’m not one for waiting around, so once cooked its good to eat straight away mopped up with warm rotis or even a green peas pulao & some raita to accompany.

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